When taking pictures on numerous exposures intentionally can be a great skill to have.
Keeping the lens open with the bulb setting and use dark cloth to take multiple exposures can be useful.
Majority of modern flashes have the ability to shoot various times and at different power settings.
Changing aperture creates such collective looks that you are varying two things at once.
Quick openness time permits us to freeze activity and see things we can’t regularly see, so the outcomes are frequently intriguing.
Take lightly with exposure time, not to assume there is a “correct” shutter speed for any effect.
Exposure time occasionally takes extra work master.
Testing long shutter speed with managed motion, test panning with moving objects.
A small flash mounted on the camera pointing right at the subject usually produces a “police photo” look- severe and documented.
Some little diffusers available for compact cameras that try to take the edge off the light from the tiny built in flashes.
A faster way to get softer lighting is what we call ceiling bounce.
Even harsh back light can produce a dramatic result.
Direct light n will almost always have various color than light bounced off of anything.
Great amount of people opt for the bounce light, except you are looking for the harsh look, or aiming to quicken sunlight.
Softer light produces softer looking images while naked flash produces hard shadows.
Both direction and diffusion of the light source will affect the look.
Depth of field depends of three factors aperture, distance to subject, and focal length.
Use exact focus to draw attention to where you want it, but be aware of the subtle issues that come up.
Unhurried shutter speeds can be mixed with the high speed of flash to produce an interesting mix of blur and sharpness.
A lens with a range of 85mm to 135mm gives you both a comfortable distance from your subject and a look that is neither comic nor flat.